

Be regular and orderly in your life like a bourgeois, so that you may be
violent and original in your work.
Flaubert
If you were in St. Peter’s in Rome and you heard
someone say, as I did, “This is a magnificent facility,”
would you think, if St. Peter’s is a “facility,” does that
mean the Church could make money on the side
by renting it out for conventions, boat shows, auto-da-fés?
When it wasn’t being used for weddings and funerals,
of course. Oh, and masses. Anyway, the guy who says
this to me is my colleague here at our school’s program
in Florence, and I’m supposed to meet him today
to go look at a fresco, but when he doesn’t show,
the program director tells me he’d been out drinking
with the students the night before and running his hands
over the young women and overserving himself
and falling off a bar stool and knocking his brains out
and going to the Santa Maria Nuova hospital to get them
stuffed back in again and is now convalescent and,
the director hopes, thoroughly ashamed, and then she says,
“Why, what were you and he supposed to do?” and I say,
“Well, I was supposed to take him to look at
a fresco and then see if he wanted to go to lunch, but I’m not sure
that’d be exciting enough,” though all the while
I’m thinking the rest of us don’t have to to try that hard.
Meet the class, take roll, pass out the quiz, collect
the quiz, discuss the assignment, make an assignment
for next time: that’s pretty much it. Drink, but not too much.
Don’t fall down. Get sexy, but only with the person who
wants you to get sexy with him or her, and never
in public. Don’t look at the admittedly underdressed
students and act like a kid in a candy store. In a real candy
store, the candy wants to be nibbled. Also, the gumdrops
don’t talk to the jawbreakers any more than the sour balls
to the licorice whips, whereas these kids tell each other
everything: a day later, I learn that, when my colleague’s
daughter came to Florence a week earlier, she descended
on our princelings, chose a fellow years
younger than herself, and had sex with him,
whereupon he, exercising the modesty and self-restraint
of his breed, ran around yelling that he had just bagged
the professor’s daughter. Did I say these kids tell each
other everything? They tell us, too, not to mention
the Italians, and as a result, the rest of us don’t have to try
that hard. I see so many Italian men in their forties and fifties,
still arrogant in their good looks yet aware that those looks
are going, that soon they’ll be, not ugly, but just average,
just old. They’re still looking at the girls, but the girls
aren’t looking at them. My colleague is 61 years old
and though he still sees himself as a kid, to the students
he’s staggering down the streets like a geezer in a nightcap,
cackling and chasing the maidens who giggle as they bat
away his hands, though two days after the bar stool incident
and one after the trashy daughter’s visit, I see our hero heading
down to the pub where he got into trouble
in the first place and learn the next morning that, as the students
tell me, he “straddled” one of our young women as she sat
sipping her drink, and I think, Straddled? What was he
going to do, give her a lap dance? The rest of us don’t have
to try that hard, except to set forth what we see before us,
just as the father of all chronicles wrote, “I, Herodotus
of Helicarnassus, set forth my history, that time may
not draw the color from what Man has brought into being,”
and I, too, will paint as best I can the picture of our days,
their lemony dawns, the white heat of their noons,
the creep of wine-dark shadows from one hill
to the next, the jet of their midnights, and everywhere
in this beautiful city the crashed-out bicycles,
the sconces on the stone walls, the padlocks
on the Ponte Alle Grazie, the tools of the shoemakers,
woodcarversall trades, their gear and tackle
and trim, as the poet says, all things counter,
original, spare, and strange. Especially strange.